Sunday, May 23, 2010

"It is time to stop dreaming your life and start living your dreams" - Book Review "The Art of Solo Travel"

"It is time to stop dreaming your life and start living your dreams": this is the philosophie behind Stephanie Lee's new book "The Art of Solo Travel - A Girls' Guide". This is not just a guide for solo female travelers, but an invaluable source of practical tips on how to manage a small budget on the road and on how to appreciate your time abroad by yourself.

I've been travelling alone for most of the time. After living for seven years in Rome, I moved to Ireland in 2005, and relocated to London in 2007. Now I'm about to start a new journey: I'll be moving to Shanghai in July, again by myself.

Admittedly, I have had times when I wished to have a travel companion, and when I felt tired to be always alone on the road, but then, this book came along and I started re-thinking the whole issue over. Besides, I reckon I'm not an easy travel companion if someone just wants to go on holiday, I pursue the constant quest for the unknown, and this might lead my friends not to tolerate me anymore.

The author makes it clear for the reader from the first page: "If you are reading this, you are not the average girl". She's right, solo women travellers are (and must be) fiercely independent, determined, stubborn.

The best thing of this book is that it's "true". Stephanie doesn't lose herself on unrealistic hyperboles: travelling and travelling solo are great experiences, but they also have their difficulties, and travellers must pay attention to details.

Furthermore, women travelling solo are, or appear, more vulnerable, and when unwanted attentions come about travellers inevitably feel uncomfortable. When all due precautions are taken, I agree with Stephanie when she says "solo travelers experience a more intimate relationship with their destinations".

The book has had a soothing effect on me, helping me not feel lonely the very moment I'm about to leave friends and family all over again.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Download your free e-books with bloggers' Best Kept Travel Secrets!

Back in November, I had taken part in a project involving many bloggers, promoted by Katie of TripBase Blog, and called Best Kept Travel Secrets.


Now, I'm very pleased to announce that what initially was just a blogging initiative, has now turned out very successful and has given the opportunity to launch a series of free ebooks that gather all tips and travel secrets of the main travel bloggers.


TripBase has teamed up with Charity:Water and gave this project a mission: to provide funds to build freshwater wells and clean drinking water to people in developing nations and to raise awareness about this fantastic cause, encouraging hundreds more people to donate and to make a real difference on the ground.


For every downloaded e-book, 1$ donation will be made to Charity:Water, so I would like to encourage all my readers and subscribers to support this cause by downloading any of the great free e-books available (or all of them if you like!).


You can download them by following this link or by clicking on the badge on my right sidebar.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

When having a local guide becomes vital

I have always believed that a foreign country is best experienced with the help of local guides. By "guide" I don't mean necessarily tour operators - if you are lucky enough to have friends living in that foreign country, problem is solved.

In general, I think a local guide is important because they will help travelers dig deeper into a foreign society, avoiding them possible time-wasting in the lookout for the most worthwhile spots, especially in the case of a short trip.

However, sometimes contacting a local guide becomes "mandatory". My previous post (I know, long time ago, apologies, I've been busy writing) was about my trekking weekend in Europe's deepest canyon gorge, Su Gorroppu, in Sardinia's Supramonte. I went trekking, and I had my local guide. With "local" here I mean a guy who lives in Dorgali, a town near Su Gorroppu, and who's been going to the canyon since he was a child.

I'm from Sardinia myself, and I would never try to go there alone. Apparently, though, some dare. And get lost. Now, getting lost in a city is not a big deal. Getting lost in Supramonte *is* a major deal.

In the regional newspaper, L'Unione Sarda, I read an article which has a hilarious twist. Well, hilarious for who doesn't have anything to do with it. A while ago, the local rescue team (usually the local guides I've contacted myself) went to Su Gorroppu to look for a tourist (from Sardinia) who got lost and was never found, since December 27th. While looking for him, the rescuers found, by a very fortunate incident, a Japanese tourist who lost his way and couldn't manage to call for help. In some areas in the mountains, there's no mobile coverage.

Last week, the same rescue team was called again - it seems like these guys work during the day to bring tourists down the canyon and during the night to look for the "independent" ones.
Anyhow, they were asked to find two German tourists and they found three: one had been wandering about, lost, for two days and nobody knew about it.

Arriving close to the mountains, from the highway, the effect is one of astonishment: those massive rocks command the view. I'm usually more a "sea-person", but that landscape was truly overwhelming, so I can understand that for mountain-lovers it's a challenge not to be missed.

However, the best advice I can give, is to pay extra attention not only in these mountains in Sardinia, but in general, every time travelers want to undertake similar adventurous trips.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

In Sardinia, walking down Europe's deepest canyon



Su Gorroppu, Dorgali

I had been warned it was tough, but in line with Sardinian stubbornness, I challenged my out-of-shapeness and made my way to Europe's deepest canyon, Su Gorroppu, near Dorgali, Sardinia's eastern coast.

The deal involved parking our car (after a drive along the very edge of a steep cliff) 200 mt above the gorge of the canyon and walking down towards the valley. "It cannot be that difficult," I thought. It didn't take me long to change my mind.

From second one, I had to mind every single step in order to avoid slipping down the cliff. The path bristled with small rolling stones that made it slippery, and bigger boulders that only apparently were stuck in the ground but that actually rolled too. And even the ones that were stuck were slippery because too worn out, for that matter.

The walk started quietly, the members of my group very interested in our guides' explanations, but after a while, all our geologic interest was inevitably fading away. We were too concentrated on placing our feet on the right stones.

The view was overwhelming, every time I looked in front of me I couldn't help but thinking how small man-made wonders are compared to what nature has done.

Being naturally rich in wood, also valuable species such as juniper, the mountains have been the target of former Italian royal family, the Savoia, who, when they colonised the island creating the Sardo-Piedmont kingdom, started a real sack, exploiting the natives and destroying the forests to obtain wood, coal and scented ashes for the houses. Thousands of trees have been cut down, burnt and loaded to the ships on the way to Piedmont. The result has been a huge damage for the environment (and for the local population), and only now little by little the forest is beginning to come back to normal.

In particularly difficult spots, I started cursing myself for having chosen this excursion instead of some other great places Sardinia is full of, and certainly less dangerous. No matter what, I kept shooting, in the hope to come out at least with some good pictures. I saw the woman behind me looking puzzled: "I admire your willingness on photographing!" She told me, sweating.

The route was actually hard, full of trees (the only handhold I could rely on), and very narrow, so we asked our guides: "What if someone gets his ankle sprained?" "No helicopter nor ambulance can manage to get here," was the guides pithy answer. "We leave the weak here, wildlife have the right to eat too!" Drowsy laugh from the rest of the group.

The moments I was getting despondent, I threatened: "That's it, I'm not moving anymore!" Bad choice, really not the case to get lost in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't have been able to find my way back to the car, I had to keep going, no way out.

Once reached the destination, my fury calmed down, being on the bottom of the canyon was worth our fatigue, and our courage was restored. Good for us, because we were about to do uphill the same route we had just descended from.

I kept shaking all evening, my mood having ranged from panic to discouragement all day. I swore I would never go back again: the day after I had already changed my mind and started planning the next excursion.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Eight enchanting villages in Provence

Adjacent to Italian World Heritage site Le Cinque Terre, and blessed by mild Mediterranean temperatures, the southern French region of Provence is one of the most glamorous holiday destinations among European travelers. Under the administration of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, the region's name dates back to Roman times when it was conquered and made it a Roman province (Provincia). Historic sites and quirky traditions are around every corner, and the landscapes of dramatic cliffs, wiggly waterways and wild mountains are overwhelming.

Authentic provençal life and traditions are best experienced in the region's quirky little villages scattered all throughout its territory. Perched hamlets, ruined castles and deserted country lanes form the mysterious soul of the provençal area of Vaucluse, and many colorful local markets adds to liveliness.

The closest international airport is Marseille, but the best town to stay and from which to organize excursions is Avignon, being almost equidistant from all Vaucluse villages. Known as the City of the Popes due to the relocation of the Holy See from the Vatican between 1309 and 1377, Avignon is today a vibrant cultural town in the heart of one of the most seductive regions of France.

Being based in Avignon also gives the opportunity to visit its main heritage sites such as the Papal Palace (Palais des Papes) and the cathedral Notre Dame des Doms, and wander along its medieval streets and the famous Avignon Bridge, that offers a stunning view of the Rhône River.

Although Provence is a highly touristic area, buses are not as frequent as one might think and the easiest way to get around is by renting a car. For bus routes and fares, the best website to check is compiled by the Department of Vaucluse.

Cavaillon

Nestled in the valley between the Luberon mount and the hill of Saint Jacques, Cavaillon is a quiet picturesque town in the heart of sunny Provence, in southern France. Lively both day and night, Cavaillon has something for everybody. Wandering the town's streets travelers can slowly discover its history, traditions, colors and tastes, while climbing the hill of Saint Jacques the unfolding panorama will comprise the whole Cavaillon, the river Coulon and the Luberon mount opposite.

Along the town's main roads, such as Cours Bournissac, Rue de la République and Cours Léon Gambetta, are lined up tantalizing little shops displaying colorful local products such as lavender honey and typical cakes and breads, and fruits marmalade. On the cultural side, an ancient Synagogue and the old Cathedral lead visitors through Cavaillon's ancient communities and lost mores.

Cavaillon is about forty minutes car drive from Avignon and an hour by bus. There are coaches departing from Avignon central station Gare Routière to Cavaillon station about every two hours, and the latest departure from Cavaillon back to Avignon is around 6,30pm. Ticket prices range from 1,50€ to 3€.

Gordes

Gordes strikes you before you actually arrive to town. Listed among the most beautiful villages in France, it offers breathtaking views from both outside and inside its walls. The little country lane that leads towards this perched village is full of tourists who stop in the middle of the road to take their best shots of the awe-inspiring castle and cathedral that command the view.

More than just a village, Gordes looks like a sculpture that comes naturally out of a huge rock, almost a natural wonder, rather than a man-made cluster of buildings. A stroll up and down its narrow cobbled lanes gives a unique perspective on medieval French architecture, to fully enjoy by visiting colorful local markets and traditional festivals.

There are no buses departing from Avignon to Gordes, and due to its position perched on a cliff and the possibility of taking great photos, the best option is to rent a car. Avignon is about forty-five minutes drive from Gordes.

Village des Bories

Part of Gordes' municipality, the Village des Bories strongly reminds of a ghost town. The very origins of the bories, cone-shaped stone huts, date back to the Bronze Age, while for the village itself historians are debating over its inception, to be situated somewhere between the 7th and the 15th century.

Although no longer inhabited, it is certain that finds such as working tools and pottery, date back to the 18th century, and the most recent architectural changes to as little as the 19th century. It completes the fascinating journey through French dry stone history a short exhibition of photos taken all over the world showing that similar stone dwellings and villages can be found in many countries, from the Italian regions of Sardinia and Puglia, to California, to Turkey.

Lacoste

Epitome of inaccessibility, this perched village in the heart of Provence was once the beloved residence of the infamous Marquis De Sade, where he lived his most scandalous and libertine days, and wrote his blasphemous books against the Catholic Church, provoking the fury of the clergy.

After several short imprisonments, he was exiled in his Lacoste castle in 1768. Restored by the French fashion designer Pierre Cardin, the castle is not open to visitors, who can only admire its ruined external facade commanding the view on the countryside. The austere building looms over the village that lies in layers on the hill slopes.

Modest signs point towards the Atélier de Création and the Savannah College of Art and Design, reason why it's not unusual meeting English speaking students strolling along Lacoste cobbled alleys.
There are no buses from Avignon to Lacoste, and with the car it will take around half an hour to arrive.

L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Commonly called l'Isle by the region's inhabitants, this village is spread out along the banks of the river Sorgue, from which it derives its name “the island on the Sorgue”. Very lively summer and winter alike, the town organizes every Thursday and Sunday a thriving show of delicacies coming from local farms. Boasting huge sectors devoted to all possible spices, jams, cheeses and flowers, l'Isle sur la Sorgue has the power to make even grocery shopping a pleasant activity.

While along the river it's a cluster of cafés, pubs, ice cream shops and restaurants, moving a little towards the city center it's possible to discover how the ancient town has been greatly preserved on the top of the buildings: if the bottom floors have been used as shops or public places, the council has decided to keep the town's traditional look on the top floors, combining picturesque leisure time with genuinely old-fashioned style.

L'Isle is about twenty-five minutes drive from Avignon, and about forty minutes by coach. The buses from Avignon are about every two hours, being the latest way back around 6pm. Ticket prices range from 1,50€ to 3€.

Roussillon

Also known as the “red village”, Roussillon is an adored holiday destination for in-the-know European travelers. The blazing red color of its cliffs and the ochre hues of its quarries give the town a warm look under the blue Provencal sky.

Surrounded by the other picturesque villages that contribute to evoke the charm of this French region, Roussillon has bedazzled many artists and is a thriving resource of art galleries and traditional craftspeople. A stroll around its narrow alleys is the perfect way to capture the essence of this little town, and an outing on its red canyon makes it for an otherworldly experience in southern France.

There are no buses from Avignon to Roussillon, and changing in Cavaillon could mean waste half a day between waiting and traveling. A car drive is best option and it will take less than an hour.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Maintaining the regional style of narrow cobbled lanes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is renowned for the excellence of its wines. Red, white, rosé, visitors can enjoy a stroll about this medieval picturesque town by dawdling along its streets dotted with tiny caves. Friendly and cosy, caves are the soul and the claim to fame of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where the wine tradition was brought in by the popes who had relocated the papacy in Avignon in 1309.

The village, previously called Châteauneuf Calcernier, derives its current name by the castle built by pope John XXII in the 14th century, but officially acquired in 1893 in honor of the widespread circulation of the wines commonly known as Châteaneuf-du-Pape. It completes the excursion a stunning view of the countryside that surrounds the village.

From Avignon to Châteauneuf-du-Pape there is only one bus a day. A car drive takes around fifteen minutes.

Fontaine de Vaucluse

In line with the trend of neighboring villages, also the town of Fontaine de Vaucluse proudly boasts having been a source of inspiration for many writers such as Italian poet Francesco Petrarca who wrote masterpieces such as Chiare, fresche e dolci acque, to celebrate her beloved Laura from the source of river Sorgue.

Nestled in the middle of a lush vegetation and with the river stretched out along its main road, Fontaine has been built around this source of water gushing up out of the ground and making the surroundings glow with iridescent hues. Like many of other provençal towns, also Fontaine houses beautifully preserved and very interesting museums, such as the one about traditional paper-making located where was the paper mill, once the main economic resource, and the Musée Appel de la Liberté about history and daily life in France and Provence during WWII.

Fontaine de Vaucluse is about thirty minutes drive from Avignon, and forty-five minutes by coach. The buses from Avignon are about every two hours, being the latest way back around 5,45pm. Ticket prices range from 1,50€ to 3€. Buy your travel money before you travel to get great deals on currency exchange rates.

This article first appeared in France Travel Guide.
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